The construction of traditional ballet pointe shoes, also known as “pointe” shoes, has changed very little in recent times. The better shoes tend to be hand made and many are manufactured to a particular dancer's individual specification. They often require accuracy to within 3 mm particularly for the block which is the part of the shoe into which the dancer's toes are placed.
The manufacturing process is most often done by the traditional “turn shoe” method. The shoes are made inside out only being turned “right side” after the block, which is referred to later, has been constructed. The shoe is formed and pleated at the toe and then stitched which is the process whereby the sole is joined to the upper by means of a wax thread. Once the shoe had been stitched it is removed from the last and turned right side out and the block and the insole can be added.
The block is the most important part of the shoe. It is usually manufactured by hand and is built up layer by layer from Hessian triangles, paper and glue. The basis of the glue is a simple flour and water paste into which different manufacturers add their own preferred additives.
When the block is added to the shoe it is not dry and can be shaped, frequently with the aid of a smooth hammer which is also used to shape the platform which is the flat part at the front of the shoe. The shoe is then placed in an oven to dry completely.
A correctly fitted shoe is essential for dancers because there is a constant risk of stress injury to a dancer's feet and the last part of the manufacturing process is to make the shoe a customised item by fashioning at the vamp, which is the top of the block, plus the side and back prior to cutting down and binding the shoe.
Traditional construction methods and materials are retained by various manufacturers because it is believed that it builds into the shoe the correct amount of flexibility together with the ability for the shoe to absorb shocks. This shock absorbing ability is created by the construction of the block in that it needs to be a close fit to the foot. This close fit then ensures that when the foot is warm and the foot swells, the air which is inside the block expands and acts as a shock absorber to prevent impact stresses damaging the feet. This process is not perfect but is the best which can be achieved with the traditional type of construction so far described.